Vogue Review: Leading Gentleman Lets the London Rains Pour Down

January 6th, 2014

Leading Man, autumn/wintertime 2014, in London.

LONDON — The coat was a sheer sheet of plastic, revealing a vibrant crimson sweater beneath. This shoulders-to-ankles protect-up was just the thing to offset the water that stood in pools on the runway or had been streaming from previously mentioned — even though London’s drenching rains experienced stopped for a little bit.

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Lou Dalton, autumn/winter season 2014, in London.

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Jonathan Saunders, autumn/wintertime 2014, in London.

It was no surprise that the opening working day of London Collections: Gentlemen on Monday appeared to be centered on Britain’s information of the working day — large ocean waves, inflammation rivers and flooded residences.

But dread not for winter season 2014. Opening the new global men’s dress in period with a heroic riff on climate adjust, the Leading Guy show was centered on the damp shimmer of blocks of PVC bonded onto duffle coats, fishermen’s boots and knits that looked like nets crocheted into roomy sweaters — their measurement challenged only by even greater overcoats.

A handwritten poem in the software notes captured the roughness and toughness with a trace of menace.

“Razor wire and gaffer tape / a footprint on a fire escape, PVC with careless drape / a peacoat minimize correct out a form,” wrote John Cooper Clarke, the Punk Rock-period poet, who sat entrance row to set the mood.

Lou Dalton’s eyesight of braving the elements was a much more mild version of outerwear, influenced by farmers’ operate dress in in her childhood. All types of nation bumpkin variations appeared — from corduroy shirts in caked-mud brown, through suits in Prince of Wales examine, to trousers rolled up to escape the mud and expose laced-up boots from the British heritage footwear brand Grenson.

Denim was bleached pale, as if by a thousand downpours, with splatters of ink blue or pink pale to pink. The Lou Dalton tailoring was intelligent, executed in Woolmark’s Cool Wool, and bomber jackets have been shown with furry collars. The end result? Weatherproof.

But whatsoever the temperature, Jonathan Saunders sees the men’s put on globe in shade, contained by graphic sample and linear shapes.

“Gritty class and colorful angst. It’s a emphasis on London in the early 1980s — heady colours and peculiar contrasts,” mentioned Mr. Saunders. He was referring to sweaters with harlequin designs, horizontal bands of different shades or printed materials with a washed-out “limey” effect created by bleached strips.

This kind of smart-relaxed in pop-out hues was blended with Saunders sharp magnificence, including standard equipped over-the-knee coats that are popping up on numerous runways but are accomplished specifically well by this designer.

Hardy Amies is component of London’s Savile Row roundup of tailors. But that formal fashion is now getting sportier: tailor-made jackets mixed with relaxed trousers or a gilet worn more than a checked go well with.

There also ended up sturdy shoes and monogram vacation baggage. And with spicy orange trousers, who cares if the sun really don’t glow?

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