Ann Demeulemeester Leaves Her Firm

November 21st, 2013

Patrick Kovarik/Agence France-Presse — Getty Photos

Ann Demeulemeester right after a Paris demonstrate in February.

Ann Demeulemeester, one of the Antwerp Six designers who brought an first, if gloomy, appear to fashion in the eighties, has made a decision to go away her business, she said on Wednesday.

With attribute understatement, Ms. Demeulemeester created her announcement in a handwritten letter despatched by email to news outlets.

“I constantly adopted my own route,” she wrote. “A new time is coming equally for my personal lifestyle and the brand name ‘Ann Demeulemeester.’ I truly feel it is time to separate our paths.”

Ms. Demeulemeester might properly be retiring from style, although she did not specify in the letter. Nor did she say who will continue to handle her Antwerp-based mostly business. Presumably it will be Anne Chapelle, whom the designer brought in as a manager in the mid-1990s.

Ms. Chapelle, in an e mail from Antwerp nowadays, declined to describe how Ms. Demeulemeester would be concerned. She did say: “We have been partners for numerous several years now, and will carry on to be. The design and style group is in place considering that many a long time functioning with Ann jointly and they are prepared to get this challenge.”

The designer mentioned that her subsequent men’s and women’s collections would be demonstrated with each other on February twenty seventh. She also stated that her brand name experienced achieved the phase where it could be operate without her.

Ms. Demeulemeester first hit the trend scene in 1986, when she and 5 other up-and-coming Belgian designers, which includes Dries Van Noten, introduced their novel types in London. The push immediately referred to them as the Antwerp Six.

Independently, they established their personal identities on the Paris runway. Ms. Demeulemeester concentrated on spare, asymmetrical tailoring and material, usually in black or white. She swiftly constructed a pursuing with retailers like Barneys New York for her effectively-reduce, slouchy trousers, filmy knits and masculine jackets and accessories.

Above the years the essence of her intimate vision remained the very same, with prospers that mirrored modifications in taste and her own suggestions. She did collaborations with the artists Jim Dine and Patti Smith. “I’m not baffled about what is taking place in trend, simply because I follow my very own path and go,” she explained in a 2006 job interview.

This write-up has been revised to replicate the adhering to correction:

Correction: November 21, 2013

An earlier edition of this article misstated the day that the designer would display her men’s and women’s collections. It is February twenty eighth, not late January.

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